THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO FABRICS AND MATERIALS

Whether you are suit shopping, replenishing your shirt, picking out a new tie, or replacing worn out shoes, each product has several different options when it comes to materials and compositions.  But choosing your fabrics can be difficult. One material may be great for a shirt, but could be the first thing you would want to avoid in a sock. In this article I will share with you the materials I value the most, and what I look for with each product. 

Suits- 

Suits are made out of a wide variety of fabrics and compositions. Many have their Pro’s and Con’s, and I will try my best to outline those here as a part of my rankings. But when it comes down to it, you may have different values than I do when selecting your clothing. The important thing is you prioritize your values in your own shopping. 

1. 100% Wool: I consider wool as the best suit all around due to it’s versatility, comfort, and durability. It ventilates well, and generally keeps you cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter, and therefore gains points for versatility. Wool is a natural fiber, and so it usually does better in the long run for someone who knows how to care for a suit. There are a few different “classes” of wool fabrics, and the finer you go the higher quality you receive. A wool suit can be described as having a “100 twist count” all the way up to around a 180 twist count. I recognize there could be more, but you won’t find anything higher than that in your run-of-the-mill suit shop. What this number means is the number of times each strand of wool is twisted before being woven into the fabric. This yields a softer surface, but more durable thread of wool. You can trust that the higher the twist count, the higher the quality and durability. Most designer brands and wool suits with a twist count of 100, will be priced between $500-$700, depending on the vendor.  For the higher quality wool suits, somewhere in the 180 twist count range, you should expect to fork over at least $900, but I would hesitate to spend more than $1300 on any suit that isn’t custom made. 
2. Linen: Linen is generally considered to be the coolest suit out there. It ventilates very well and a lot of people use it for July and August weddings. Linen tends to have a certain aesthetic to it that makes it a great choice for Boho weddings, especially in the cream colors. But if you are a distinguished bachelor, you can still make use of this suit at your cocktail parties and other casual affairs. That being said, the linen suit is only for those who are dedicated to its care. Linen has a nasty reputation for getting wrinkles, and so you should be prepared to give it a good steam every couple of uses. Lower end linen suits can be found for as low as $450, and the highest I would pay for one is probably $700-$750. 
3. Synthetic: These suits are either really good or really poor, depending on the brands. The good go above and beyond. It is these that I rank at number three. On the formal scale, they are one or two steps down from the wools, linens, and poly-wools, but as long as you aren’t a lawyer you can probably get away with this suit in most scenarios. I would suggest athletic cuts, they will be made for increased mobility, and are usually unlined, helping it ventilate better. The only downside to these types of suits is that most tailors find a hard time altering them, so you will want to find one as close to your fit as possible. My favorite brands for this type of suit is Twillory, or the Elevate suit found at the Kater Shop. &Collar also has a suit like this, but I have little experience with it. These types of suits are perfect for someone with an active lifestyle, salesmen, and those who give lots of business presentations. 
4. Poly-wool: The poly-wool’s main attribute is its versatility. It is the perfect blend of the pros of both the wool and the polyester. It can take a beating like the polyester can, but doesn’t get quite as stuffy as a full polyester. Additionally, many poly-wools such as the Eisenberg found at katershop.com have a flex panel underneath the armpit to facilitate mobility, one of the biggest downsides of any suit. However, the reason I ranked it below the all wool suit is because with the extra polyester, you often find these suits are heavier and hang a little awkward. If you’re trying to save a buck but still want something nice, these are a good option because they are typically in the range of $300-$600. 
5. Polyester: I honestly try avoiding polyesters as much as I can, whether I am purchasing for myself or whether I am consulting a client. They can be hot and stuffy, stiff and awkward, they deteriorate over time, and they are hard to keep looking nice (they collect small “woolies,” tiny balls of fabric that cluster and stick to the fibers). That being said, the main draw with these ones is the affordability. I tend to sell these most to high school students who purchase it for homecoming knowing it won’t fit for prom, or for men who need a suit but who aren’t “suit guys” and know they will never wear it again after this once in a blue moon event they are required to attend. The sticker price of $100-$400 can be tempting, but if you are serious about expanding your wardrobe, I encourage you to dig a little deeper into your pockets and get something that will look and feel better and last longer. 
6. Cotton: Rarely have I seen a cotton suit, and I’ve only ever had the opportunity to  try on a couple, but I will say they have been the most uncomfortable feeling and grungy looking suits I have come across. If you find one that works for you, great! Please send me a picture so I can reframe my assessment! 

Let it be noted that while I say 100% wool suits hold up better in the long run, that is under normal circumstances and assuming the owner takes care of it. If he keeps it wrinkled in the backseat of his car underneath his day bag, if he wads it into a suitcase, if he bikes to work in it every day, he will actually see it wear out quicker than he would a full polyester or in a poly-wool blend. 

Shirts-   When it comes to shirts, there are really only three options: cotton, cotton-poly, synthetic. 

1. Cotton: Cotton is my go to with shirts. Other shirts may have gimmicks that make them appealing, but in the long run it has been my cotton shirts that have gone the extra mile. They feel better, they are less shear, and they hold up a lot better over time. The only issue is they also hold stains better, so be careful with your morning coffee! My favorites have been Viterelli and Enro.
2. Linen: The only reason I ranked the linen below the cotton is accessibility. Linens tend to be on the more expensive side, and fewer outfitters stock them. This means they are harder to find and take longer to arrive, but once you find one, it’s a keeper. If your going for comfort, light-weight, and breathability, then look no further than the linen shirt. I just got my own from Charles Tyrwhitt and I am absolutely in love with it! This is perfect for the man who isn’t locked into a cubicle all day but who still wants to look nice. It’s a step down on the casual meter, but a step up in class. Men of leisure, this is the shirt for you!
3. Cotton-poly: This option can be a good substitute in a pinch, whether that be a true emergency or just a need to pinch pennies. The cotton-poly will be the least-expensive shirt at most vendors. 
4. Synthetic: Now, if you need a nice comfortable shirt, but don’t need something too flashy, than the synthetic is the one for you. It’s typically more expensive than the cotton-poly, but cheaper than a full cotton. The best ones I’ve seen from this category have features such as being completely untuckable, wrinkle free, stain resistant, machine washable… just about everything you could ask from a shirt to make your life easier. But be forewarned, while the convenience is a huge plus, it does have a shorter life-span than cottons, and they can tend to be a bit sheer (so wear an undershirt). My favorites are &Collar, Tempo+ (from The Kater Shop), Twillory, and UNTUCKit. 

Shoes- I love dress shoes. I went on a date once with a girl where it came up that I had more pairs of shoes than she did, and as we continued dating she doubted me because she only saw the same pair of tennis shoes each time we saw each other. Turns out I just had that one pair of tennis shoes and nineteen pairs of dress shoes. Moral of the story; you can never have enough dress shoes. That being said, in formal wear there is really only one material you should consider and that is leather. It is supple and will conform to the size of your foot as you break it in. If you take good care of it, it will serve you well and last a lot longer. That and they just look good. Once you have two or three leather pairs of shoes, you can then broaden your horizon and may consider a suede, but in my experience leather is best. Some of you may be tempted to try pleather… please don’t. Or if you do, don’t let me know you did because it will make me cry. They are a budget shoe, so if you really can’t afford anything more, then I may be able to forgive you. But in the long run the leather is always best. (Check this link for more information on shoe sizing, treatment, styles, and my top recommendations).

Ties- Ties are pretty simple: silk>anything else. However, silk ties are notoriously expensive, so a twill wool is another option. Some people really like the cotton ties, but in my experience they are no better than a synthetic blend. One plus towards the synthetic, there are occasionally some that are treated in teflon, making them extra hard to stain and washable. (In case you didn’t know, you should never wash a tie unless it specifically states it can be washed.) My favorite places to go tie hunting are The Tie Bar, Yourties (silk!), and Stacey Adams. 

Socks- Finally you have socks. Rule of thumb is that if you are outside on your feet all day, cotton will be your worst nightmare. They absorb moisture and will cause blistering for you. Wool is what you want to go with, for they will wick moisture and have a little extra cushion for your foot. However, in most other scenarios, cotton does fine. In fact, 90% of the dress socks I wear are cotton. Occasionally you will find a good synthetic blend that combines comfort with wicking, (and I even found one at the Kater Shop called DryMax that reduces foot B.O.!). My top picks for socks are Stance and Stacey Adams, though there are many reputable brands of socks out there.

Whenever you are looking to expand your wardrobe, it is important to take material into consideration. What is most important? The color, or the fabric? The style or the cut? The quality or the price? Keep in mind that these are generalities. As in all other cases, there will be products which use the better materials, but do so poorly. In some cases, you actually prefer a finely made polyester suit over a poorly made wool one. Whatever it is you are looking for, stick to your priorities and get the suit that fits your needs the best.

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Photos accredited to The Kater Shop

Disclosure: As an affiliate, the author of this article may receive compensation for any promoted products purchased. I have personally tested the majority of the items, and do not promote any brands or products of which I have not had a reliable amount of experience with and whom I do not stand behind.